Wellington

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By international standards Wellington is a small capital city, but its embassies and visitors endow it with a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Avibrant cultural scene is heightened by its attractive coastal location, buzzing cafes and good restaurants.

Defined by a magnificent harbour and hemmed in by steep forested hills, Wellington’s downtown stretches across a narrow lip of flat land. Tall wooden houses cling to the hillsides, beyond the green belt of parks and reserves around thye central core. The inner city is linked to the suburbs by steps, walkways and New Zealand’s only public “cable car” (actually a funicular railway).

Wellington is only about a third of the size of Auckland, but in attitude, atmosphere and scenis appeal the two cities are equals. Their friendly rivalry for the title of New Zealand’s best place to live keeps city planners on their toes. Redevelopment of Wellington’s centre and waterfront has spruced up arts and performance venues and confirmed the city’s reputation as New Zealand’s cultural capital. This is epitomised by the national museum, Te Papa, whose mix of traditional and interactive exhibits draws more than a million visitors each year. The capital’s main function is the business of government, and the beautifully restored Parliament complex makes for a fascinating visit. Away from urban development , the North Island’s southermost city is the gateway to the scenic splendour of Cook Strait and the Marlborough Sounds.

It’s the architecture of New Zealand’s Parliament that grabs the attention. Of the three buildings in the complex at the northern end of Wellington’s centre, the most distinctive is the modern Executive Wing - known as the Beehive. Beside it, the older, beautifully refurbished Parliament House and its library embody national heritage and pride.

The Beehive lives up to its name. Its dome rises from a broad base through layers of increasingly smaller circles of offices. A feature of Wellington since the 1970’s, the building certainly stands out, some would say like a sore thumb, but other see it as a powerful example of modern architecture.

Marlborough Sounds

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For many visitors, the Marlborough Sounds are the furst sight of the South Island as they cross the turbulent water of Cook Strait of fly over the area’s intricate, narrow sea channels. The tranquil waterways are ideal for a boating holiday, and small towns along the coast have seaside charm and artisan traditions.

Many travellers fly directly from Welling ton to Christchurch or strike out further afield as soon as they get off the inter-island ferry, but the area is worth exploring, particularly if you want to relax for a day or two.

The sea claws into the South Island’s northeastern tip, creating Marlborough Sound, a labyrinth of islands, peninsulas sheltered bays and hidden coves. Although raods run along some of the gnarled and steep stretches of land enclosing each waterway, boats are a more practical mode of transport. They have always played a significant role in public transport in New Zealand; the country’s rivers and coastline served as scenic highways before the construction of roads, and the best way to explore the Marlborough Sounds is on a water taxi or cruise launch.

Start your voyage in style with the ferry crossing of the moody Cook Strait, a rewarding and scenic journey. There are three inter-island services available from Wellington’s harbour: Tranz Rail’s Interislander ferries and faster Lynx catamaran, and Strait Shipping’s ferry. The Lynx leaves from Wellington’s inner-city wharf, while the ferries leave terminal at Aotea Quay. All services transport cars and passengers, but the slightly more expensive Lynx takes about two and a quarter hours while the ferries take three to three and a half.

On a clear and calm day, the Cook Strait crossing is a gentle cruise, always within sight of the mountains of Marlborough and Kaikoura. On overcast and windy days, however the strait heaves with strong ocean currents and the journey can become unpleasant. But for the longest part of the voyage the ferry travels through the narrow passageways of the Marlborough Sounds and the sea calms down as soon as you pass the tight entrance to Tory Channel. From this point onwards the ferry weaves its way through a maze of steep, forest-covered hills and the dramatic scenery of the narrow waterways will be a welcome distraction.

Tory Channel stretches between a tongue of land from South Island and Arapawa Island, where 18th century explorer Captain James Cook first spotted the strait now named after him. Arapawa Island also marks the site where Polynesian explorer and navigator Kupe finally caught up with the giant qctopus that led him to discover New Zealand.

Once the boat passes the island, the channel opens into Queen Charlotte Sound and a seascape of small coves, twisted inlets and sheltered bays. These are the result of sea level changes after the ice ages, when the ocen rose and drowned an elaborate ntework of branching river valleys.

At the head of Queen Charlotte Sound is Picton, where passengers can transfer from the ferry to a bus or train. This small port has grown into a pleasant holiday town and a good base from which to explore the sounds by walking, fishing, sailing, kayaking or cruising. Picton’s wharf, a short walk from the ferry terminal, is the departure point for charter yachts, cruise boats and water taxis.

Cruise options range from short journeys around the inner Queen Charlotte Sound to full-day trips to the neighbouring Kenepuru or Pelorus sounds. Popular cruises are the mail runs along the Queen Charlotte and Pelorus sounds. Some of the most beautiful properties along the coastline are inaccessible by road and the mail boats will deliver anything from a samm letter to groceries or building materials. Most bays along the way have holiday homes (which New Zealanders call baches) nestled among thriving native shrubs, boats moored on the sparkling water, and a string of boat sheds lining the coast. Local residents may row out to meet the mail boat or greet it on the beach.

Another popular destination for visitors is Ship Cove, almost at the seaward end of Queen Charlotte Sound, which Captain Cook visited repeatedly during his voyages. It was here that he claimed the country on behalf of Britain, as well as letting loose the first sheep in New Zealand. The cove is the starting point of the Queen Charlotte Track, which winds its way through 67km (42 miles) of native bush and coastline to Anakiwa, offering stunning views out across the sounds. You can arrange a water taxi to drop you off and pick you up at various points along the track and walk as far as you want to.